I decided to clean up the existing one. I wire brushed it off and grinded back the paint to reveal a fairly holey air cleaner. I think this part stays fairly cool, so am planning on filling it and then spraying it. So worries over on the air cleaner issue.
Interestingly the air cleaner oil bath is full of seeds! The tractor obviously has done some proper work at some point- and never cleaned out properly!
My friend Marcus came round to have a look- and have now enlisted him to help with the splitting of the tractor and replacing the teeth for the starter.
After lots of web searching I can't seem to find anywhere to buy replacement teeth for the starter motor- and also spotted on the web, that the starter teeth are in fact ruined as the new ones don't have a beveled edge. I'm considering now a new/original starter which is approx £200... I'm keeping track of all the costs and when I have a running/working tractor I will add it all up!
The Makita battery grinder with the wire brush was a great purchase!
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Hi...'bashing' is not a recommended cure for any seized bolt or nut..... There are various remedies, depending on the situation and with wheel nuts/head studs and the like, an impact wrench...as can be bought in high impact socket sets or a 'rattle gun' are both very useful tool kit items.
ReplyDeleteI suggest you clean threats afterwards and use a tension-wrench to tighten all to correct tensions. Loc-tite can protect threads and is useful even though it makes some interference with "dry to dry" correct surface tensions (as with head bolts or wheel nuts) but it will also assist in less binding owing to rust formation and/or over tensioning. Over-tensioning is not good for wheels or for the bolts. Spark plugs also should be tensioned into place at the correct tension.
Your Starter Motor....The toothed drive (pinion gear) of the starter should be easily available simply because so many of these engines were about,irrespective of ebay or internet advertising. They will certainly be around 'somewhere' and available as "New Old Stock" or lying under some auto electrician's bench in a farming area /Council active area where Fegusons were used....Council's stores may even have some gathering dust. USA Europe and Ireland used heaps of Fergusons, so try their wreckers and farming organisms...ask for help.
I don't know how many teeth are missing but they can have new metal welded, and re-formed before case-hardening and final forming. Get the number of teeth and the over-all outer and inner diameter. That may lead you into the field of replacements from other motors. If it has lost teeth the ring gear may also be 'suspect' or have lost teeth.
Repairs to gear teeth is quite an established trade and you could start with a differential repair shop.
Being sent from USA will not be expensive either...although they are 'red-hot' on postal charges to assist staying afloat paying massive interest on their Capital banker's (and thus yours) deliberate New Order financial-destruction.of the world's manageable economy. Your 'original' starter may be some Chinese thing or even a rebuilt one from some 3rd world place. I'd be sticking with your genuine one....make sure it is thoroughly checked over by an auto electrician and operating 'fine' without the pinion gear.
A well put together starter will last many years...but don't have them running more than about 15 seconds to start an engine without letting the starter and battery cool a bit...say 20-30 seconds.
Starters draw massive current and have massive loads exerted on components.....If an engine doesn't start rapidly then it, itself, has issues needing repair.
The compression ratio of a Ferguson engine is 6 to 6.6 when in perfect condition. That's not high but the mass of inertia items is high enough to minimize starter time by keeping your tractor/baler in a shed with sacking over the engine bay and with the tractor being given regular maintenance......especially in petrol engines, to plugs, distributor cap, condenser, rotor and points and to fuel pump operation. Lack of use can see round pellets forming in the fuel lines...periodically blocking fuel to carburettor or if a diesel...suffering moisture in fuel.
By the way wire brushes spread meta at very high velocity So...ALWAYS use high impact safety glasses and keep everything away from any possible entry of bristles or other metal into electricals and oil.......I am told molasses is a good rust remover
The Military probably have auctions of their old tractor gear from time to time....keep an eye out.They will have had 'masses' of spare parts.
Don't just rely on the internet. Also...try some of the Ferguson clubs....they are very knowledgeable and whilst not always cheap, members do have access to gear...and for that, accept the price as being as much for the access as for the item. One you could try is fergusontractors@hotmail.com
Voila!! Tony Clancy, Sydney, Australia